We have repeatedly recommended the document “Law Enforcement Use of Tactical Emergency Casualty Care” by Lifehold Strategic as a vital reference on “tactical” medical intervention in the real world.
The work compiles every LEO use of TCCC/TECC interventions that could be found, since 2004, into an easy read, complete with infographics. It is well worth your time to download and check it out. In reading it, one of the things that jumps out at us as we read, and look at the numbers, is the incidences of “Drags and Carries”. This is a subject that is sometimes little touched on, and little prepared for by non-medics, but the numbers make a strong argument to change this. In LEO TECC/TCCC incidents since 2004, drags or carries have been employed 58 times. Compare this to 62 uses of hemostatic agents, 37 uses of chest seals, and only 1 use of a nasopharyngeal airway (NPA). The need is clearly there for guys and gals to be up to speed on their drags and carries. We’re going to talk about gear here, but the very first thing is to get the skills, and regularly work the skills. Not fit enough to move another human being? Work on changing that. Don’t know how to move another human being? Classes covering the ways and means are out there. Plus, the information is readily available, and a patient friend can probably help you out if no formal training opportunities are readily available (just, use caution and work carefully. If you get hurt, it’s your own fault).
Let’s ask this question: How many of us have chest seals and NPA’s in our kits, but no casualty drag equipment? We’re wagering it’s more than a few. There are plenty of commercially available drags out there. Many of them are somewhat bulky, requiring a dedicated pouch, but also offering quite a bit of length and various attachment and routing options. And no matter the size, most of the dedicated “tactical” casualty drag set-ups are expensive. Between size and expense, drags are often relegated to carry only by medical responders, packed in larger kits, and not often considered “individual equipment”. One proposed solution to this is to carry several feet of 1” “climbing” (or tubular flat) webbing in a cargo pocket, or small pouch. How much, exactly, varies depending on who is making the suggestion: Just enough to get under someones arms, all the way up to 20-feet (an approx. 7” roll). Whatever length you find works, both for carriability and being long enough to actually use, a strap of 1” webbing is not a bad idea. The only problem with it we’ve run into is that unless it’s carefully stored and carefully deployed, the two free ends can be hard to keep track of (and sometimes, hard to hang onto if one’s hands slip any). Here’s an alternative setup that we’ve been playing with for awhile:
w/ 6″ ruler, G17 mag, standard ID/CC size card, chapstick for size reference.
Climbing slings are a sewn loop of flat webbing, available in different lengths. And, in truth, the majority of climbing slings are far too short to be useful as a casualty drag. But, 6′ and 8′ loop-length slings can be found if someone looks. And most of them are cheap. The one pictured, a 72” Advanced Base Camp (ABC) sewn-sling, costs around $8 on Amazon where we got ours. To make the sling more versatile, we’ve paired them with a “quickdraw”, or two carabiners connected by a short dogbone of webbing sewn to hold the ‘biners at opposite ends. You can use two loose ‘biners, but we went with a quickdraw because it helps to retain the ‘biners in the wrapped up package, and adds some versatility in how they can be used. Quickdraws are available ready made, such as this $13 MadRock unit, or you can buy ‘draw connectors to use ‘biners you already have. Connecting two ‘biners yourself allows you to scale down a little more, like we did by using the smallest (3.7” long) ‘biners Mad Rock makes.
Although this set-up will lack some of the options of a longer strap of flat-webbing, or the purpose made casualty drags, it still offers a multitude of options for use. The greatest advantage here is the size of this setup once complete. Folded up, and secured with a rubber band or a silicone bracelet, this can be stuck in many pockets (to include jeans pockets), and certainly in a multitude of small pouches. Cost is also a significant advantage, coming in around $20 for the whole rig. You could also spend a little bit more, and get the 10′ loop-length North American Rescue Hasty Harness, which comes in at about $25, and gives you more length but will also fold up larger than the climbing sling.
To make this setup even more useful and easily carried, it can also be staged on the belt using a PHLster Flatpack to contain the sling and quickdraw. One end of the ‘draw can be attached to the sling, and the other to the ring on a riggers belt, while worn, to create a ready platform for rapid extraction.
How to best use it? The best option with any medical, or med-adjacent, skills is to get hands on training. If you can’t yet, look online for various references on casualty drags and carries, and work from there. Take some time and figure that out for yourself and your tribe, team, etc. There are multiple ways to route the sling, or attach it to equipment, and to use it to drag someone. Remember when we said that the first and best thing was to get and maintain skills at moving a casualty? Setting up and figuring out this Pocket Casualty Drag is a great opportunity to work on that.
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There are a few things I consider truths, in my practice of arms and keeping arms for protection and home defense.
Thing The First: If you keep firearms for personal or home defense, having rapid access to them is fundamental. Tools aren’t useful if they aren’t at hand when needed, particularly tools that are needed immediately. The flip side to this, is that dangerous tools must be safely stored to prevent negative outcomes such as unwanted access. For a long time now I have adopted a binary approach to my carry gun, regarding access: It is either holstered on my body (where I control access to it), or it is locked up (where unwanted access to it is prevented). The best place for it is on my body, where I have active control, but also where I can most readily access it if needed. The downside is that, this isn’t always comfortable or possible.
Thing The Second: A pistol is a valuable home defense tool. While long-guns are superior fight winners, and we have discussed the versatility of shotguns in particular, they present challenges for moving through your home with. Especially if you are moving to other family members, to secure or extract them. As a parent, I can over-encumber myself with a long-gun if I have to move to my children’s bedrooms and retrieve them, or move one to the others room to barricade. A pistol is a much more functional choice for solo house clearing, particularly with the intent to then handle small people.
Thing The Third: In a home defense scenario, there are things I need beyond just a firearm. I need a light, I may need medical equipment, I may need other support gear. While many of us just yardsale our light, magazines, and daily carry medical into a bedside valet tray or shelf in the safe at the end of the day, that loose assortment of crap is hard to pick up and tote around. Woken in the middle of the night, many of us are in minimal clothing if clothed at all, and where do you put it all?
With these three points in mind, I have long practiced staging a pistol, when it’s not on body, in a secure but accessible way, along with a few essential support items. This has been an evolving process over the past near-decade, wherein I’ve tried a range of things: Keeping a dedicated pair of cargo shorts with a light clipped on and pockets stuffed with medical gear beside the gunsafe; A plate-carrier with holster, magazines, trauma kit, and flex-cuffs on it; A “happy sack” claymore bag full of reloads and med gear; A warbelt with holster, magazines, trauma kit, etc.
Each thing I’ve tried had some merit, but wasn’t as functional or easy as I wanted it to be. The closest I came to a single, easy to use, platform for putting on quickly to deal with a bump in the night, was the warbelt. With the warbelt, I could have a complete support setup of spare magazines, trauma kit, and even a holster and handgun, on an easily donned platform, that required no additional components and was semi-functional regardless of manner of undress. The warbelt, however, required either that my carry gun be transferred into the holster every night before bed, or in the middle of the night during a crisis. If stored with the gun in the holster, the whole thing had to be secured within a safe. If the gun was kept locked up, and the warbelt hanging somewhere, it took time to retrieve both and put them together. And there was absolutely nothing subtle about the warbelt. If, for some reason, I had to walk out of my house with it on, it was going to be problematic.
For the past several months, I’ve been using a different tool to bring all of these things together similarly to what the warbelt did, but that also allows fairly open public wear. The venerable, infamous, fanny pack.
After trying a few things low-key, I picked up an Elite Survival Systems TailGunner 2 fanny pack, and begin to using it seriously. ESS makes a variety of gun fanny packs, for both full size and compact guns, in different styles and materials. I chose this one because I found it on sale, it was big enough for a Glock 17, and it was in a style similar to long established pistol fanny packs such as Tommy and Eagle. In fact, it appears to be a clone of the older Eagle Industries Weapon Fanny Pack.
Made from 1000D Cordura, the TailGunner 2 is on the heavy side, but isn’t lacking for robustness. The heavy material is further reinforced by solid stitching, and foam padding between front and back layers. The material, and padding, effectively block out the shape of the bag and prevent whatever you put inside from printing an outline through the material.
The design of the TailGunner 2 is very simple. A flush-fitting front pocket spans the entire width of the bag, and the main body is a single pouch which zips almost entirely around, allowing it to fully open up. Inside that main pouch is a Velcro hook field on the body side, and a pair of elastic loops and Velcro loop strip on the opposite side.
Running across the hook field, vertically, is a simple strap affair, sewn at the bottom and threaded through a steel loop sewn at the top of the compartment, with mating Velcro on the body and running end of the strap. This is for securing a holster within.
The TailGunner 2 comes with two different sizes of “holster” insert, both of which have loop Velcro exterior for mounting on the hook field. I put holster in quotes, because these are loose, universal fit, thin bits of fabric that conform to no particular gun, provide no passive retention, and are flexible enough to allow outside objects into the trigger guard. These got a flaccid pass from me, and were thrown in the trash as soon as the pack arrived.
Fortunately, the strap arrangement is an excellent means of locking a more secure holster into the TailGunner 2. I am able to put my carry holster, a Dark Star Gear Orion, into the bag and secure it very quickly with the strap running through the steel clip (and behind the Dark Star Darkwing attachment). A Velcro loop field on the rear of a holster will make this attachment even better, as it attaches to the hook field allowing a set angle to be established. Although this strap attachment may not work for every holster, it works with most of them that I have tried, including WML holsters, and those using soft loops and other attachments.
For a dedicated holster for this, I would look to the PHLster Skeleton. A minimalist holster, with the width of a full size holster, the Skeleton fits the strap extremely well, and almost seems designed to lock into it. With a clip, or soft loop, around the strap, it is perfectly secure for even vigorous drawstrokes and rapid movement.
Inside the main compartment of the Tailgunner 2, at each top corner of the front side, are hard-sewn pull tabs. One of these can be pulled up and left exposed, between the closed dual zippers, providing a ready grab-handle for quickly pulling open the pack. A firm forward and downward pull on this will unzip the entire pack, allowing access to the handgun within.
In addition to the main compartment and front pocket, the Tailgunner 2 features “wings” on either side of the bag, that offer additional cargo capacity. On the left is a small PALS field, which while not super discreet is useful for clipping other items to, or mounting pouches or other gear. On the right, is a zipper pocket, in the shape of the semi-triangular wing. Although not able to hold a great deal, this pocket provides a place to stash your phone for hands free use (such as staying on the phone with 911), or to store small items like pepper spray.
There is also shock-cord laced across the front of the Tailgunner 2, with a barrel-lock for adjusting it. This could be convenient for some users, particularly for regular wear where it makes a handy way to store a cap or gloves for short periods. It turned out to not be useful to me, and somewhat in the way, so I unlaced it.
After several months of wearing the Tailgunner 2 regularly, and training with it on the range and in the gym, I’ve come to a setup that I am reasonably happy with. My carry gun and aforementioned Dark Star holster are in the main compartment, along with a factory 33rd magazine. In the front pocket rests a SOFT-T-Wide tourniquet, nitrile gloves, a full sized pack of Celox Rapid, and a roll of Combat Medical Battle Wrap (a clear, elastic, adhesive trauma bandaging product). On the left wing, attached to the PALS field, is a Fenix flashlight, a 1000lb break strength cord handcuff, and a container of pepper spray. The right wing pocket is left empty for stashing my phone in.
I cut off the original zipper pulls, and replaced them with cord-pulls closed with heat-shrink. Although high quality YKK zippers, the factory pulls were large metal affairs, which jingled quite a bit and were a source of unwanted attention. Cutting them off, and replacing each with smaller cord pulls achieved both silencing the pack, and keeping unnecessary tabs out of the way. With the pull-cord opening widget exposed, the zipper pulls are not needed to access the pistol, and grabbing one along with the pull-cord would jam the opening action. Reducing the size of the pulls effectively negates that possibility.
After removing the shock-cord gear retainer from the front, I ironed on a faux Supreme logo patch to help break-up the profile of the fanny pack a little more, for the occasions when I do wear it outside the house. Being made from heavy Cordura, with a bit of PALS, and square boxy construction, the Tailgunner 2 does benefit from a little added misdirection to deepen its deception.
Using the Fanny Pack
The primary role for this fanny pack setup (jokingly named the Booga-Lite bag, for the front yard boogaloo) is to wear at home. I am a work-at-home parent while my husband is getting his degree, so most of my time is spent at and around my house. With two kids at home, unsecured firearms are an absolute no, so either I carry or the guns are behind locked steel doors. Working from home, I don’t have a dress code or much reason to put on a belt, and the reality is that it’s inconvenient to have to belt up, put on a holstered pistol, and go about my day around the house. There’s a lot of ways to solve this, smaller guns and pocket carry, sucking it up and embracing the “comforting not comfortable” bullshit mantra, not carrying at all, and so on. None of those ways solve it particularly comfortably, cheaply, and with the ability to have onboard medical and support gear, except for the fanny pack.
The Tailgunner 2, as I have it set up, allows me to quickly don pistol, support gear, and med kit, regardless of what I am wearing at the moment, and comfortably keep it all available while going about my day. Because it has a somewhat discreet appearance, I can wear it out into the yard or when going on afternoon walks around the neighborhood with the kids, without arousing suspicion of my neighbors. When I am not wearing the Tailgunner 2, it isn’t much bulkier than a gun-rug style pistol case, and can be locked in many pistol safes, lock boxes, or larger safes, with ease. It can be quickly retrieved from there, and fastened around the waist or tossed over the neck, as a home defense platform.
I am still not using the fanny pack for routine concealed carry outside of the house. Although fanny packs are currently low-profile and, if selected properly, not likely to draw much attention, I am much happier to wear my pistol AIWB and carry support gear on my person in other means. Although worn around the body, and more secure than a shoulder bag, fanny pack carry is still closer to “off body” carry than not, and comes with challenges that must be understood. A one-handed draw from the fanny pack can be rather difficult, simply because of the steps required to open it. In a fight that begins at contact distance, where you must fight to a dominant position before accessing a weapon, the fanny pack is likely to shift around significantly, and may even get unfastened from the waist. Even if you achieve dominant position, an effective single handed draw from the fanny pack while maintaining control is going to be challenging. For these reasons, plus being able to dress in ways that don’t favor adding a fanny pack, I primarily choose not to use the Tailgunner 2 for routine concealed carry.
This choice is why I don’t have a permanently attached holster in the Tailgunner 2. At the end of a day outside the house, I can come home, take my carry gun and holster out of my pants, and mount it in the fanny pack for continued wear. Doing this, rather than unholstering and reholstering, minimizes the administrative handling of a loaded unholstered pistol.
My routine looks something like this: If going out, I take the pistol and Dark Star Gear Orion out of the fanny pack, and put it on as usual. When I get home, the entire package is remounted to the Tailgunner 2, and that gets put on with whatever more comfortable around the house clothes I’ve slipped into. At night, when I go to bed, the Tailgunner 2 with the pistol inside, is placed in the safe in the master bedroom, where it can be retrieved quickly in the middle of the night. When I get up in the morning for a typical day around the house, the fanny pack can be removed and put on, and the safe locked behind it.
Booga-Lite II: The Unsubtle Boogaloo
While playing with the Tailgunner 2, and exploring the role of the fanny pack as a platform for home defense, I set up a second rig that is far less subtle. Using a cheap imported fanny pack from Amazon, that is much more “tactical” in style than the Tailgunner, I built a platform for holding a handgun, long-gun reload, support and medical gear, that makes no bones about what it is.
The HuntVP fanny pack I used is a clone of the Maxpedition Octa, itself a variation on the old Eagle ERB. It has a PALS(-ish) field across the entire backside of the bag, to which I mounted a Blue Force Gear Ten-Speed Double M4 mag pouch. Into the right hand pouch, I forced a PHLster Skeleton with a Discreet Carry Concepts clip on it. The clip goes over the pouch, and the PALS on the fanny pack, and provides retention for the holster. Into the left side pouch, I can put a rifle magazine, or a carrier for the QD-C sidesaddle. The very front pockets are loaded with nitrile gloves, and tourniquets, and the main pocket of the pouch is filled with hemostatic, trauma bandages, NPA’s, and a Rescue Hook. A flashlight can be clipped to the webbing on the front of the pouch, along with a can of pepper spray, or other items.
The role of a bag like this would be similar to how I use the Tailgunner 2 for a “bump in the night” platform. It could be easily stored in a medium lockbox or safe, and provides ready access to your fundamental home defense equipment all on a single platform. Exact configuration would depend on your needs. I set it up fairly medical heavy, but you could easily put a single PHLster PEW and tourniquet in the front, and use the main compartment for tactical gloves, flex cuffs, additional lights, more reloads, or whatever you deemed appropriate for your mission/needs. For a strictly grab-and-go fighting loadout for the homeowner, this higher profile setup has a lot of merits: It nearly duplicates the position and drawstroke of an AIWB carried pistol, allows for more reloads (or different ones) to be carried ready to access, and just generally offers more support capability in an overt role. For my needs, this will be my least used booga-lite rig because of that overt nature, but if all I needed was a home defense platform, this would be the prime contender.
You could use this ERB style of bag for a less overt rig, as well, but after trying both styles, I have come to prefer bags constructed like the Tailgunner 2, that open up fully like a clamshell, for carrying a pistol within. This almost entirely eliminates the potential for hanging up your draw, from within the bag, on the opening (a distinct possibility with a bag constructed like the ERB).
The fanny pack is versatile, for concealed carry or as a platform for emergency equipment, beyond these ideas. My uses for the fanny pack are a narrow scope of what is possible, and my setups may not be ideal for everyone. This is offered to give structure, and a starting point, for your explorations.
(This article contains an Amazon Affiliate link. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.)
There are things we know.
We know that at 2:00 AM on June 12th 2016, an ISIL inspired killer walked into the Pulse nightclub in Orlando and started shooting. Before he was stopped, 49 people were fatally shot, and 53 wounded. The law enforcement response began just two minutes later, but no officers entered the club until ten minutes had passed. In the minutes following, officers carried 14 wounded out of the club before asking Orlando Fire paramedics to go inside with them. Orlando Fire commanders refused to make entry, and continued to refuse for nearly an hour despite the offer of ballistic vests from another agency. 88 people were left alone, injured and dying. A study published in the journal PreHospital Emergency Care, by E. Reed Smith et al, found that 16 victims would have survived if they had received care within ten minutes.
We know that after calling 911, the next thing we do is wait. “Emergency medical service units average 7 minutes from the time of a 911 call to arrival on scene. That median time increases to more than 14 minutes in rural settings, with nearly 1 of 10 encounters waiting almost a half hour for the arrival of EMS personnel. Longer EMS response times have been associated with worse outcomes in trauma patients.3 In some, albeit rare, emergent conditions (eg, cardiopulmonary arrest, severe bleeding, and airway occlusion), even modest delays can be life threatening” writes Howard K. Mell MD, MPH,CPE in a 2017 paper published in the Journal of the American Medical Association – Surgery. We know that even once official “help” arrives, they have no duty to actually do anything. We have known this for a long time.
We know that since the 1960’s CPR has been taught to everyone from school kids to lifeguards to dental hygienists. We know that when someone has a heart attack, immediate resuscitation performed by bystanders improves outcomes significantly, vice waiting for trained responders to arrive. This logic is increasingly being applied to managing severe bleeding too, with the Hartford Consensus and rise of Stop the Bleed programs.
We know the pithy sayings like “when seconds count, 911 response is only minutes away” are rooted in a cold reality. That, in this greatest of all possible worlds, when emergencies happen we are on our own. Maybe help comes, or we find our way to help, but in the critical seconds and minutes, outcomes depend entirely on the people who are there. There is no one coming to save you or anyone else. If you want to have survivors, you have to make survivors.
What not everyone knows, is how to do that. What is required, in those lifetime-long minutes or hours until help arrives or is reached? We propose that it is nothing superhuman. To be a survivor, to make survivors, you do not need to be a superman assuming some heroic stance in the face of great evil. You simply must, as Uncle Scar taught us, be prepared.
The level of preparedness and skill required depends on your purposes, your environment, and the threats you face. Solo hiking deep backcountry trails requires more preparedness, and a deeper skill, than walking to the corner and back. Field research in the Mongolian wastes requires more than research at your local library. Conducting special operations in hostile lands, more than shopping at “that” Wal-Mart or Murder Kroger. And so on… But, is there something more exceptional about those skills in harsher environments, than in your own? No. You can acquire, train, and perform the skills to survive austerity and hostility, whoever you are.
One doesn’t need to be an ascetic disciple of survival skills to use them. No one coming to save us for a life of disciplined doldrums would probably be a blessing. We survive to return to a life that we’ve built for our fulfillment. A life spent in monastic devotion to mastering some art of living when others die isn’t a life worth living at all. The best skills and tools at survival, and self protection, are those that work smoothly into the life you already lead, the one you are building, not as the purpose of that life. You can spend a weekend learning wilderness survival, practice the fundamentals in your backyard and every camping trip, and survive a disaster. You can give a few weekends a year to classes, and a handful of hours a week to dry fire, and shoot better than most other gun owners. You can take a Stop the Bleed class in a day, and practice applying a tourniquet now and then, and successfully save a life.
Conversely, this is not to say that weak effort will be rewarded, or that suffering a bit to get better at these skills isn’t required. You get out of a thing what you’ve put into it, and if what you’ve put in to your skillset is laziness, apathy, and too much time on the couch, when you are selected, your performance will suffer. If you want to be hard to kill, you have to make yourself hard to kill. It does not happen by osmosis, or through minimal effort. There is no one coming to save you, you have to do it, and to do it, you must put in the work.
“One way of looking at this might be that for 42 years, I’ve been making small, regular deposits in this bank of experience, education and training. And on January 15 the balance was sufficient so that I could make a very large withdrawal.” – Capt. Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger on landing Flight 1549 and all 155 souls aboard safely in the Hudson River.
That effort is doable. The results attainable. You can do it. As in an emergency, start where you are and do one thing that makes a difference, and then do another. Change the batteries in your smoke detector, learn to use a tourniquet, shoot a new drill at the range this weekend, dry fire, learn CPR, eat better, lift a weight now and then. One thing, then the next, this is doing the work. Nature produces many things which are hard to kill, but their very lives require the use and refinement of that ability day in and day out. You aren’t a great jungle cat or a hippopotamus: If you want to be dangerous, you have to earn it.
Dangerous? Aren’t we talking about survival skills, not just violence? Yes, dangerous. Do you want to face death and not be? The word dangerous descends from Middle English, where its meaning included difficult, arrogant, and fraught with danger. Being hard to kill means being capable where others aren’t, being difficult to subdue be it by attack or the depredations of environmental extremes, in short, being dangerous. The world is full of wonders, and if you cannot stand in the face of death and say “not today” you will miss out on many of them. To live the life you want, you must be dangerous when confronted with risk. This you must do for yourself. There is no one coming. Everything is up to you. If you can’t be safe, be dangerous.
Each and every one of you, if you venture into the wilds, drive the roads, pursue adventure or live a quiet life, volunteer in conflict zones or at the safest church in the best neighborhood. Each and every one of you who want to live a good, and long, life. Each and every one of you who are sincere about affecting your passions despite any threat, need to be dangerous. You need more skills, more depth, than a single article, class, or book can give you. It is a lifelong pursuit.
This is something you know, and knowing this, having taken that first step, having that sincerity about your passions, this is your mandate to become fucking dangerous.